The early morning train ride to Seville was a very pleasant and restful one and Jerry boy recuperated from the intense sightseeing activities yesterday. Checked into this spanking new hostel near the city centre and surprisingly, this is one of the best rooms I have stayed in so far in Spain! Makes me wonder why I have been paying triple the price for the hotel rooms...
Some personal admin and research later, was at the Seville Cathedral & Giralda. Again, this is an instance of the destructive streak of the Spanish - the old mosque was demolished after Seville fell to the Christians and in its place, a gargantuan Gothic & Baroque cathedral was built in its place. Talk about the loss of Spain´s ancient heritage...The country was bequeathed so bountifully and yet lost so much...The church did make up for it with lavish interiors and a great view of the city from the top of Giralda.
However, those were not the main attractions and what transpired in the evening was even better.
The Plaza de Toros de la Real Maestranza aka the bullfighting ring was fantastic. Although the bullfighting season was just over in October, the sheer immensity of the ring and the informative guided tour by a very knowledgable and helpful Spanish guide was an experience. It is possible to imagine what a visual feast it must be from the kaleidoscope of colours from the matodors´costumes. Coupled with the danger of the matador being gored to death in a bullfight (child prodigy & national sensation Manolete was killed in 1947) plus the virtual certainty of the bull´s demise, the elevation of mindless slaughter into a virtuosic art-form must be as entertaining as the gladiators´mortal combat in ancient Rome´s Colosseum.
Not far off from the bull ring is a tablao or a taverna which showcases flamenco dances with dinner included. The entire venue was packed with tourists; not a single local in sight. Somehow, I felt that this was going to be another ¨made for tourists¨shows and in a way, I felt I am right. The performance was quite entertaining - the moves were precise, the singing and Spanish guitar accompaniment were very good; but somehow, some of the dancers just lacked the spirit of the dance. Without getting into the melancholic soul embodied in the music, it is impossible to do a good flamenco piece IMHO. Let me repeat: Flamenco is all about SOUL.
Then again, this is my virgin flamenco experience so perhaps I should reserve my judgment. Am going to try for another one tomorrow night and hopefully, I will have better luck...Meanwhile, Jerry boy is thinking of when he is able to come to Seville during bull-fighting season and perhaps stay for a month, catch a few fights and pick up Spanish along the way...Pipe dreams!!
Sunday, November 18, 2007
Picturesque Granada
A good nite´s rest later, Jerry emerged from his nest an early bird. An espresso and cake at the cafeteria across the road didn´t hurt and then Jerry was on his way to the Alhambra & Generalife! For those of you who do not know what this place is, it is a Muslim palace-castle-garden complex stretching across the top of the hill; with imposing views across the whole of Granada City.
Thought that I will be the one of the first few to reach the complex but it seems that the rest of the world conspired against me and this time, there was the usual horde of Japanese tour groups and independent Spanish travellers. Anyway, it was fortuitous that I was forewarned by the hostel reception yesterday that I can simply waltzed through the long queue at the ticket office by using the automated ticket vending machines for credit card payments. Haha, worked beautifully and it was satisfying seeing those waiting tourists wasting their time. Suckers!!
Entry to the complex is a little tricky as the tickets have fixed entry times (morning or afternoon visit). Moreover, there is a stipulated entry time to Palacio Nazaries (the Muslim palace). If one were to miss this entry time, then you might be seriously in trouble since you will have to wait till the afternoon before you can enter. Imagine screwing up your schedule for the whole day, especially if you are on a tight schedule like I am...
So the main entrance is not the only entrance but there are several smaller ones at each of the individual attractions within the complex and the walk there is quite long. Getting mesmerized by the trek through the beautiful gardens while taking pictures is not an option as you can seriously panick as you get nearer to the stipulated entry time and realise you haven´t reached yet!
Soon, I was at the Palacio Nazaries and my gosh, it had one of the most beautiful interiors I have seen - intricate stuccos, beautiful tiling, finely carved wooden ceilings and elaborate honeycomb/stalactite vaulting. In the courtyards, beautifully sculptured stone lions adorn the fountain.
Next was the fortress with various turrets offering great vantage points overlooking the whole city. Great views but otherwise ok. The Generalife gardens were pretty and one can slowly enjoy the sunshine while taking a languid stroll through it, admiring the colourful, symmetrically arranged flora.
Overall, a satisfying experience and the rest of the day was spent walking through the Albayzin across from the Alhambra with colourful, delightful tourist traps selling everything from glass with Arabic inscriptions to scented Arabian tea and various jewelry, Shisha...
Enough of Granada for now. Looking forward to my Seville trip tomorrow - flamenco!!!
Thought that I will be the one of the first few to reach the complex but it seems that the rest of the world conspired against me and this time, there was the usual horde of Japanese tour groups and independent Spanish travellers. Anyway, it was fortuitous that I was forewarned by the hostel reception yesterday that I can simply waltzed through the long queue at the ticket office by using the automated ticket vending machines for credit card payments. Haha, worked beautifully and it was satisfying seeing those waiting tourists wasting their time. Suckers!!
Entry to the complex is a little tricky as the tickets have fixed entry times (morning or afternoon visit). Moreover, there is a stipulated entry time to Palacio Nazaries (the Muslim palace). If one were to miss this entry time, then you might be seriously in trouble since you will have to wait till the afternoon before you can enter. Imagine screwing up your schedule for the whole day, especially if you are on a tight schedule like I am...
So the main entrance is not the only entrance but there are several smaller ones at each of the individual attractions within the complex and the walk there is quite long. Getting mesmerized by the trek through the beautiful gardens while taking pictures is not an option as you can seriously panick as you get nearer to the stipulated entry time and realise you haven´t reached yet!
Soon, I was at the Palacio Nazaries and my gosh, it had one of the most beautiful interiors I have seen - intricate stuccos, beautiful tiling, finely carved wooden ceilings and elaborate honeycomb/stalactite vaulting. In the courtyards, beautifully sculptured stone lions adorn the fountain.
Next was the fortress with various turrets offering great vantage points overlooking the whole city. Great views but otherwise ok. The Generalife gardens were pretty and one can slowly enjoy the sunshine while taking a languid stroll through it, admiring the colourful, symmetrically arranged flora.
Overall, a satisfying experience and the rest of the day was spent walking through the Albayzin across from the Alhambra with colourful, delightful tourist traps selling everything from glass with Arabic inscriptions to scented Arabian tea and various jewelry, Shisha...
Enough of Granada for now. Looking forward to my Seville trip tomorrow - flamenco!!!
Friday, November 16, 2007
Cordoba is full of character
More of the same today with another early morning train to Cordoba, the ancient heartland of Andalucia and the regional capital. Thank God I made it for the train as I did not realise that the Madrid metro starts at 6am and with only 30min headroom, it was a miracle I manage to get a ticket and catch the train.
Had a bit of hiccup in getting tickets as the ticket office I bought my Toledo ticket yesterday was not open yet and when I went to another ticket office that was open, the unfriendly staff just muttered something in Spanish and brushed me off in another direction to get my Cordoba ticket.
Was in a mild panic as it was 10min to departure time and I almost resigned myself to the idea of just hitting Granada directly and skip Cordoba. Made a last ditch effort and quickly walked through the train station to where I recalled seeing some ticket offices when I first came to Madrid and true enough, I manage to get my ticket there. Quickly ran to board the train and was the last passenger on board and the train took off just 2min later. Phew!!! Nothing beats having to run for a train to get your adrenalin pumping in the morning and wake you up from your somnambulistic stupor.
Less than 2hr later and I was in Cordoba. Immediately hit the trail to the Mezquita -the cathedral - mosque. This seems like an oxymoron but it is true and I think this can only be found in Spain due to the fluid nature of Christian-Muslim wars, depending on who is winning at a particular point in time, the building is either a mosque or a cathedral and either structure will borrow materials and craftsmen from the other. From my time in Barcelona when I saw Gaudi´s Modernist Temple de La Sagrada Familia to Toledo´s Gothic Catedral de Toledo, this elegant Muslim-Christian creation must surely be the best. The forest of columns and arches, the intricate motifs and Islamic inscriptions...they were simply beautiful!
Next on my list was the Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos - a palace-fortress complex with beautiful palm trees and well-maintained gardens. But beneath the idyllic exterior belies a more sinister past. From 1490 to 1821, this was the site of the Spanish Inquisition. God knows how many innocent people were condemned to their fates here.
Am happy catching the 2 main attractions I have targeted here and now getting ready to hit Granda tonight. Need to go catch some zzz, the physical activity is getting too much...
Had a bit of hiccup in getting tickets as the ticket office I bought my Toledo ticket yesterday was not open yet and when I went to another ticket office that was open, the unfriendly staff just muttered something in Spanish and brushed me off in another direction to get my Cordoba ticket.
Was in a mild panic as it was 10min to departure time and I almost resigned myself to the idea of just hitting Granada directly and skip Cordoba. Made a last ditch effort and quickly walked through the train station to where I recalled seeing some ticket offices when I first came to Madrid and true enough, I manage to get my ticket there. Quickly ran to board the train and was the last passenger on board and the train took off just 2min later. Phew!!! Nothing beats having to run for a train to get your adrenalin pumping in the morning and wake you up from your somnambulistic stupor.
Less than 2hr later and I was in Cordoba. Immediately hit the trail to the Mezquita -the cathedral - mosque. This seems like an oxymoron but it is true and I think this can only be found in Spain due to the fluid nature of Christian-Muslim wars, depending on who is winning at a particular point in time, the building is either a mosque or a cathedral and either structure will borrow materials and craftsmen from the other. From my time in Barcelona when I saw Gaudi´s Modernist Temple de La Sagrada Familia to Toledo´s Gothic Catedral de Toledo, this elegant Muslim-Christian creation must surely be the best. The forest of columns and arches, the intricate motifs and Islamic inscriptions...they were simply beautiful!
Next on my list was the Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos - a palace-fortress complex with beautiful palm trees and well-maintained gardens. But beneath the idyllic exterior belies a more sinister past. From 1490 to 1821, this was the site of the Spanish Inquisition. God knows how many innocent people were condemned to their fates here.
Am happy catching the 2 main attractions I have targeted here and now getting ready to hit Granda tonight. Need to go catch some zzz, the physical activity is getting too much...
Thursday, November 15, 2007
Towering Toledo
Woke up really early this morning to catch the 30min morning commute to Toledo via the high-speed AVE train. Really a struggle to get out of bed since I have been sleeping few hours the past few nights commuting between various cities since Amsterdam to Spain last week. The cold chill of the morn didn´t help and it was tempting to continue curling up between the sheets.
But Toledo beckoned and I did not want to miss out the magnificent experience, having read all about it in the guidebooks. Got my ride and was greeted by the morning cold of 2 degrees Celsius. Damn, didn´t know it will be this cold. Thought Toledo being further south of Madrid should do better in terms of weather but it was colder in fact!
Got out of the train station and it was totally a ¨wasteland¨ where I disembarked. There were no taxis at the train station. No tourist office to give useful travel advice to the clueless traveller like moi. No clear signage as to where I was on the locality map and how to get to the main tourist sights. This is one of those times I did not know how to get to where I wanted to go so just gave it a wild shot and walked in the direction of Alcazar which is my numero uno attraction to see. FYI, this was a fortress built in the 10th century by a Muslim ruler but was largely destroyed during the Spanish Civil War.
After a short trek, finally could take it no longer and stopped by a roadside cafe and got my coffee and dough fritters (yes, it tastes very much like the ÿou tiao we have in Singapore). What serendipity too, when Jerry discovered that the tourist information office was right next door and after a useful map from a very helpful staff, Jerry was very much on track.
Toledo is by far the most interesting of all the cities I have visited in mainland Spain thus far. Being one of the first to reach Toledo in the morning, I had the luxury of soaking in the historic atmosphere of its surroundings without any noise disturbance. The magnificent gothic cathedral, the imposing city walls, the Alcazar fortress were magical.
Really wonder why Franco did not make Toledo the capital city of Spain. The depth of its historic roots would have been an obvious choice but guessed the power of the Catholic Church there (it was the seat of Catholic authority in Spain) might have been a threat to his absolute hold of power. In a way, I am glad that Toledo is not the capital which probably enabled to retain its charms.
Finally arrived at the Cathedral de Toledo and I was immediately taken by the opulence of its interior and the various catholic relics - cloaks worn by the bishops, the cups for communion, etc. This is way different from the Temple de La Familia de Sagrada but still it is beautiful. Glad to have finally enjoyed the premise in relative peace and quiet; just as I was about to leave, was suddenly besieged by the massive crowds of Korean and Chinese package tourists. Adios you poor souls who do not have the pleasure of exploring the spirit of the city!
Tracked down the El Greco trail since this is a ¨must-do¨ suggested by LP. El Greco was this famous Greek painter who did a few impressive pieces and who rose to posterity after his death, penniless (what´s new?) Also checked out an old synagogue in the Jewish Quarter but the relics were ok - could have appreciated much more if there had been more explaination in English at the museum.
Generally, will recommend Toledo to anyone who wants to have a taste of what historical Spain is really like. You won´t be disappointed. Just walking around the streets of this UNESCO World Heritage City will make you exhilarated.
Great, this is my first real enjoyable city in Spain. Hope to see more in Andalucia!
But Toledo beckoned and I did not want to miss out the magnificent experience, having read all about it in the guidebooks. Got my ride and was greeted by the morning cold of 2 degrees Celsius. Damn, didn´t know it will be this cold. Thought Toledo being further south of Madrid should do better in terms of weather but it was colder in fact!
Got out of the train station and it was totally a ¨wasteland¨ where I disembarked. There were no taxis at the train station. No tourist office to give useful travel advice to the clueless traveller like moi. No clear signage as to where I was on the locality map and how to get to the main tourist sights. This is one of those times I did not know how to get to where I wanted to go so just gave it a wild shot and walked in the direction of Alcazar which is my numero uno attraction to see. FYI, this was a fortress built in the 10th century by a Muslim ruler but was largely destroyed during the Spanish Civil War.
After a short trek, finally could take it no longer and stopped by a roadside cafe and got my coffee and dough fritters (yes, it tastes very much like the ÿou tiao we have in Singapore). What serendipity too, when Jerry discovered that the tourist information office was right next door and after a useful map from a very helpful staff, Jerry was very much on track.
Toledo is by far the most interesting of all the cities I have visited in mainland Spain thus far. Being one of the first to reach Toledo in the morning, I had the luxury of soaking in the historic atmosphere of its surroundings without any noise disturbance. The magnificent gothic cathedral, the imposing city walls, the Alcazar fortress were magical.
Really wonder why Franco did not make Toledo the capital city of Spain. The depth of its historic roots would have been an obvious choice but guessed the power of the Catholic Church there (it was the seat of Catholic authority in Spain) might have been a threat to his absolute hold of power. In a way, I am glad that Toledo is not the capital which probably enabled to retain its charms.
Finally arrived at the Cathedral de Toledo and I was immediately taken by the opulence of its interior and the various catholic relics - cloaks worn by the bishops, the cups for communion, etc. This is way different from the Temple de La Familia de Sagrada but still it is beautiful. Glad to have finally enjoyed the premise in relative peace and quiet; just as I was about to leave, was suddenly besieged by the massive crowds of Korean and Chinese package tourists. Adios you poor souls who do not have the pleasure of exploring the spirit of the city!
Tracked down the El Greco trail since this is a ¨must-do¨ suggested by LP. El Greco was this famous Greek painter who did a few impressive pieces and who rose to posterity after his death, penniless (what´s new?) Also checked out an old synagogue in the Jewish Quarter but the relics were ok - could have appreciated much more if there had been more explaination in English at the museum.
Generally, will recommend Toledo to anyone who wants to have a taste of what historical Spain is really like. You won´t be disappointed. Just walking around the streets of this UNESCO World Heritage City will make you exhilarated.
Great, this is my first real enjoyable city in Spain. Hope to see more in Andalucia!
Mixed feelings about Madrid
After Zaragoza, it was an uneventful journey down south to Madrid. Like Barcelona, Madrid is constantly humming with activity, with throngs of people rushing through the streets to where they want to go. Kinda reminds me of Hong Kong except that here, there is infinitely more space.
Started my journey through the city at a leisurely paceto Puerta del Sol - the centre of Madrid and a main artery of the city. Here, it was a pleasant ecletic mix of Spanish who never seem to be tired of shopping, tourists gawking at buskers made up of quartets performing popular tunes, cafe owners doing a roaring business selling over-priced coffee and snacks to the beleaguered weary tourists seeking a respite from exploring the city.
Eventually made my way to just outside Palacio Real - the Italian Baroque colossus built by Felipe V. Unfortunately, the palace was closed to outside visitors due to some official state functions and I missed the chance to visit its sumptous interiors.
Nevertheless, all is not lost. Jerry managed to catch the changing of the palace guard in a simple ceremony. All the soldiers in their smart uniforms are a sight unto themselves; especially when they did not manage to march in lockstep with each other. But well, the uniforms and cute berets made up for it. Also, enjoyed the surroundings when he caught La Vie En Rose being played by a busker with an accordion while another busker nearby posed as a silver fairy floating around in an ethereal fashion in accompaniment.
As Lonely Planet suggested, the Prado Musuem was also not to be missed so I went there too the next day. While the sights are rather attractive, with Goya and El Greco amongst many others; I was lost after a while. It was simply a matter of too much art in too short a time and then all the paintings and sculptures seem to morph into something similar to each other. Really reminds me of the Louvre Museum in Paris though the building does not have the same kind of grandeur in architecture.
Rounded off the night with authentic Spanish cuisine of Castilian soup and Madrid-style cod fish. Rather scrumptious overall though the experience could have been enhanced if the waiter was a little more friendly (too matter of fact IMHO) and more careful (spilt my Perrier on the table). One piece of cod fish was also not cooked fully. But then again, who cares? The ambience is great, everyone is having a good time in town and so Jerry ignores all these to have his own fun too!
Good food is always a sure way to round off a day of sightseeing for that perfect travel experience!
Started my journey through the city at a leisurely paceto Puerta del Sol - the centre of Madrid and a main artery of the city. Here, it was a pleasant ecletic mix of Spanish who never seem to be tired of shopping, tourists gawking at buskers made up of quartets performing popular tunes, cafe owners doing a roaring business selling over-priced coffee and snacks to the beleaguered weary tourists seeking a respite from exploring the city.
Eventually made my way to just outside Palacio Real - the Italian Baroque colossus built by Felipe V. Unfortunately, the palace was closed to outside visitors due to some official state functions and I missed the chance to visit its sumptous interiors.
Nevertheless, all is not lost. Jerry managed to catch the changing of the palace guard in a simple ceremony. All the soldiers in their smart uniforms are a sight unto themselves; especially when they did not manage to march in lockstep with each other. But well, the uniforms and cute berets made up for it. Also, enjoyed the surroundings when he caught La Vie En Rose being played by a busker with an accordion while another busker nearby posed as a silver fairy floating around in an ethereal fashion in accompaniment.
As Lonely Planet suggested, the Prado Musuem was also not to be missed so I went there too the next day. While the sights are rather attractive, with Goya and El Greco amongst many others; I was lost after a while. It was simply a matter of too much art in too short a time and then all the paintings and sculptures seem to morph into something similar to each other. Really reminds me of the Louvre Museum in Paris though the building does not have the same kind of grandeur in architecture.
Rounded off the night with authentic Spanish cuisine of Castilian soup and Madrid-style cod fish. Rather scrumptious overall though the experience could have been enhanced if the waiter was a little more friendly (too matter of fact IMHO) and more careful (spilt my Perrier on the table). One piece of cod fish was also not cooked fully. But then again, who cares? The ambience is great, everyone is having a good time in town and so Jerry ignores all these to have his own fun too!
Good food is always a sure way to round off a day of sightseeing for that perfect travel experience!
Wednesday, November 14, 2007
Zzz...Zaragoza
After Barcelona, stopped by Zaragoza - the 5th-largest city in Spain and the capital of the state of Aragon. Remembered this place as my Spanish teacher Ana told me she was from that state. As it turned out, the journey there is more interesting than the city itself. Sorry, Ana! (I know you are reading this blog).
Must say that it was quite an experience taking the train from Barcelona to Zaragoza. The Spanish transport system really leaves much to be desired, especially after what I have experienced at Barcelona airport previously. The train was no different. For some reason, the train could not leave from the Barcelona train station and I did not even know it until about 30min before the train was supposed to leave. It was then that I asked a Renfe (Spanish rail staff) lady about my train. She gave me a horrified look and quickly ushered me to another line of passengers obediently queueing up behind another Renfe staff holding a placard of our train number. Imagine the consequences had I continued to wait at the waiting area for my train to arrive. Am going to be really screwed if I miss my train.
Seriously, I did not know what I was waiting for. Despite the friendly reassuring smile from a Spanish lady next to me who was trying to be helpful, seeing me with my luggage and all, the language barrier was real and I thought I was going to be screwed this time. (Damn, wish I had been more industrious with my Spanish lessons...Am inspired by my travel difficulties to hit the books again...RITE!)
Finally made our way to a bus outside the train terminus where we were unceremoniously ushered into a bus and then driven off. At first, the silly me thought that I was going to be driven to Zaragoza. But after considering the distance involved, this didn´t make sense. Wanted to desperately ask my fellow passengers what was going on, but knew that it will simply be a pursuit of futility.
Just when I resigned myself to the possibility of being lost in some weird Spanish city, the bus stopped us off at Tarragona - somewhere south of Barcelona; and we then embarked on our train ride. Phew! Never knew that this could be possible. In Spain, it seems that when your ticket tells you that you are to embark on a train from a certain station, it might not be the case. When in doubt, always ask! No shame in doing that (especially for you guys out there, take note)
Anyway, not much to say about Zaragoza other than this one main attraction which I really like - the Aljaferia. This is Spain´s finest Muslim-era edifice outside Andalucia, though not in the league of Granada´s Alhambra or Cordoba´s Mezquita (Lonely Planet). Not sure about this but have already gotten a pretty good idea of what I am about to see in Granada and Seville when I am there; the Muslim architecture is simply beautiful! All these little intricate motifs in the carvings, the beautifully landscaped gardens, nicely contoured ceilings, etc, conveys a certain elegance but yet not opulent.
Most of my time in Zaragoza was spent in taking long strolls through the main square where the most beautiful church was - the Basilica de Nuestra Senora del Pilar. Had quite a bit of church fatigue so did not spend too much time admiring the church but just wanted to chill out in general. Quite a nice feeling actually, since it was not crowded.
Think the fatigue must have gotten to me and would have enjoyed this place more had I had more sleep - too much running around in Barcelona catching the sights and the early morning train. Anyway, hope I do better for the rest of the trip!
Must say that it was quite an experience taking the train from Barcelona to Zaragoza. The Spanish transport system really leaves much to be desired, especially after what I have experienced at Barcelona airport previously. The train was no different. For some reason, the train could not leave from the Barcelona train station and I did not even know it until about 30min before the train was supposed to leave. It was then that I asked a Renfe (Spanish rail staff) lady about my train. She gave me a horrified look and quickly ushered me to another line of passengers obediently queueing up behind another Renfe staff holding a placard of our train number. Imagine the consequences had I continued to wait at the waiting area for my train to arrive. Am going to be really screwed if I miss my train.
Seriously, I did not know what I was waiting for. Despite the friendly reassuring smile from a Spanish lady next to me who was trying to be helpful, seeing me with my luggage and all, the language barrier was real and I thought I was going to be screwed this time. (Damn, wish I had been more industrious with my Spanish lessons...Am inspired by my travel difficulties to hit the books again...RITE!)
Finally made our way to a bus outside the train terminus where we were unceremoniously ushered into a bus and then driven off. At first, the silly me thought that I was going to be driven to Zaragoza. But after considering the distance involved, this didn´t make sense. Wanted to desperately ask my fellow passengers what was going on, but knew that it will simply be a pursuit of futility.
Just when I resigned myself to the possibility of being lost in some weird Spanish city, the bus stopped us off at Tarragona - somewhere south of Barcelona; and we then embarked on our train ride. Phew! Never knew that this could be possible. In Spain, it seems that when your ticket tells you that you are to embark on a train from a certain station, it might not be the case. When in doubt, always ask! No shame in doing that (especially for you guys out there, take note)
Anyway, not much to say about Zaragoza other than this one main attraction which I really like - the Aljaferia. This is Spain´s finest Muslim-era edifice outside Andalucia, though not in the league of Granada´s Alhambra or Cordoba´s Mezquita (Lonely Planet). Not sure about this but have already gotten a pretty good idea of what I am about to see in Granada and Seville when I am there; the Muslim architecture is simply beautiful! All these little intricate motifs in the carvings, the beautifully landscaped gardens, nicely contoured ceilings, etc, conveys a certain elegance but yet not opulent.
Most of my time in Zaragoza was spent in taking long strolls through the main square where the most beautiful church was - the Basilica de Nuestra Senora del Pilar. Had quite a bit of church fatigue so did not spend too much time admiring the church but just wanted to chill out in general. Quite a nice feeling actually, since it was not crowded.
Think the fatigue must have gotten to me and would have enjoyed this place more had I had more sleep - too much running around in Barcelona catching the sights and the early morning train. Anyway, hope I do better for the rest of the trip!
Sunday, November 11, 2007
Funky Gaudi
Was well-rested after sleeping 9hr last night! Wow, never knew I was that bushed...
Anyway, quickly made my way out of my pad asap to make up for lost time yesterday and immediately got to Casa Batllo - a UNESCO World Heritage building designed by Antoni Gaudi, the father of Modernisme architecture in Spain (more specifially, Barcelona). You simply cannot escape this guy wherever you travel within Barcelona, it is Gaudi this, Gaudi that. By the way, he also built Temple De La Sagrada Familia. We´ll come to that later.
Casa Batllo is cool as the construction of the whole house was predicated on nature. The undulating shapes, irregular sizes and colour interplay are suggestive of the internal structure of a whale while other parts resemble corals and shelf fish. Really interesting as the conceptualization of the building is so original that no other building in the world comes close to it.
As for Temple De La Sagrada Familia, it was the same story. Although the theme is not marine life but Christian works (check out the various stories of the Bible in the sculptures), Gaudi´s touch was absolutely manifest from the design of the pillars, the naves to the arches, etc. I had previously thought that I had enough of Europe´s churches with the typical Gothic arches or other more recent neo-classical ones but after seeing Gaudi´s creation, I am amazed. Though half-completed, it is truly a stunning display of genius. Were it not for his early demise in the mid 1920s and the Spanish Civil War, the construction of this church might have progressed further. Without the personal direction of Gaudi and given the behemoth nature of this undetaking, I figure this will take another 50 years to complete (building started in 1893).
Anyway, that´s all for now folks, it is dinner time for Jerry the intrepid traveller. Needs some more chow to get further inspiration to regale you with more exciting tales of my travels (hopefully).
Anyway, quickly made my way out of my pad asap to make up for lost time yesterday and immediately got to Casa Batllo - a UNESCO World Heritage building designed by Antoni Gaudi, the father of Modernisme architecture in Spain (more specifially, Barcelona). You simply cannot escape this guy wherever you travel within Barcelona, it is Gaudi this, Gaudi that. By the way, he also built Temple De La Sagrada Familia. We´ll come to that later.
Casa Batllo is cool as the construction of the whole house was predicated on nature. The undulating shapes, irregular sizes and colour interplay are suggestive of the internal structure of a whale while other parts resemble corals and shelf fish. Really interesting as the conceptualization of the building is so original that no other building in the world comes close to it.
As for Temple De La Sagrada Familia, it was the same story. Although the theme is not marine life but Christian works (check out the various stories of the Bible in the sculptures), Gaudi´s touch was absolutely manifest from the design of the pillars, the naves to the arches, etc. I had previously thought that I had enough of Europe´s churches with the typical Gothic arches or other more recent neo-classical ones but after seeing Gaudi´s creation, I am amazed. Though half-completed, it is truly a stunning display of genius. Were it not for his early demise in the mid 1920s and the Spanish Civil War, the construction of this church might have progressed further. Without the personal direction of Gaudi and given the behemoth nature of this undetaking, I figure this will take another 50 years to complete (building started in 1893).
Anyway, that´s all for now folks, it is dinner time for Jerry the intrepid traveller. Needs some more chow to get further inspiration to regale you with more exciting tales of my travels (hopefully).
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